Fleeing Terror, Finding Refuge

Millions of Syrians escape an apocalyptic civil war, creating a historic crisis. Part IV of The Out of Eden Walk.

 
Up to 5,000 Syrians from Kobani amass at the border with Turkey, next to the Turkish village of Dikmetas. On this day was the beginning of the exodus when 200,000 Syrian's, mostly Kurds, crossed into Turkey in 72 hours.

Up to 5,000 Syrians from Kobani amass at the border with Turkey, next to the Turkish village of Dikmetas. On this day was the beginning of the exodus when 200,000 Syrian's, mostly Kurds, crossed into Turkey in 72 hours.

Waiting for nearly a day without food, Turkish military toss bread as thousands more Syrians amass at the border with Turkey.

Waiting for nearly a day without food, Turkish military toss bread as thousands more Syrians amass at the border with Turkey.

Hours after the Turkish military cut the fence at the border, refugees from Ayn al Arab continue to stream across. They bring only the clothes on their backs and a few bags packed in haste.

Hours after the Turkish military cut the fence at the border, refugees from Ayn al Arab continue to stream across. They bring only the clothes on their backs and a few bags packed in haste.

This evening in September 2014, was the largest flow of humanity between Syria and Turkey since the fall of the Ottoman Empire, when the exodus of Armenian's fleeing genocide in 1918 crossed overland into Syria, Beirut and Iran.

This evening in September 2014, was the largest flow of humanity between Syria and Turkey since the fall of the Ottoman Empire, when the exodus of Armenian's fleeing genocide in 1918 crossed overland into Syria, Beirut and Iran.

Five-year-old Ahmed breaks down in tears after arriving safely in Turkey with his family. Some 150,000 Kurds made the wrenching journey in three days, entering at multiple places along the border.

Five-year-old Ahmed breaks down in tears after arriving safely in Turkey with his family. Some 150,000 Kurds made the wrenching journey in three days, entering at multiple places along the border.

Mihlie family from Kobani, Syria, hours after crossing into Turkey seeking safety from ISIS. The family of 25 burned plastic, the only material they can find to keep warm.

Mihlie family from Kobani, Syria, hours after crossing into Turkey seeking safety from ISIS. The family of 25 burned plastic, the only material they can find to keep warm.

A Kurdish refugee family waits in a car after crossing into Yumurtalik in Turkey, fleeing the advance of ISIS into Kobani, Syria.

A Kurdish refugee family waits in a car after crossing into Yumurtalik in Turkey, fleeing the advance of ISIS into Kobani, Syria.

Gul, 22, rests with her youngest son, Burhan, who is one, and her other children. They found shelter at an abandoned gas station in the town of Suriç, Turkey, after walking from Karhko, Syria, hours earlier, fleeing the Islamic State.

Gul, 22, rests with her youngest son, Burhan, who is one, and her other children. They found shelter at an abandoned gas station in the town of Suriç, Turkey, after walking from Karhko, Syria, hours earlier, fleeing the Islamic State.

A dust devil picks up dirt and plant debris pulverized by the migration out of Syria. Relatives, friends, and helpful strangers—waiting to welcome the refugees as they walk into Turkey—were caught in the maelstrom.

A dust devil picks up dirt and plant debris pulverized by the migration out of Syria. Relatives, friends, and helpful strangers—waiting to welcome the refugees as they walk into Turkey—were caught in the maelstrom.

Tens of thousands of Kurds flee an Islamic State assault on Kobani in Syria and stream across the border into the Turkish town of Dikmetas on Saturday, September 20, 2014. This was day two of the exodus when 200,000 Syrian's, mostly Kurds, crossed in

Tens of thousands of Kurds flee an Islamic State assault on Kobani in Syria and stream across the border into the Turkish town of Dikmetas on Saturday, September 20, 2014. This was day two of the exodus when 200,000 Syrian's, mostly Kurds, crossed into Turkey in 72 hours.

A man carrying his families mattresses entering into Turkey, fleeing the Islamic State assault on Kobani in Syria - Saturday, September 20, 2014.

A man carrying his families mattresses entering into Turkey, fleeing the Islamic State assault on Kobani in Syria - Saturday, September 20, 2014.

A child with his family arriving to safety in Turkey.

A child with his family arriving to safety in Turkey.

Uncertainty hangs like a storm over the Syrians who have fled to Turkey. The conflict back home could drag on for years, leaving the refugees to wonder when they’ll be able to return—if ever.

Uncertainty hangs like a storm over the Syrians who have fled to Turkey. The conflict back home could drag on for years, leaving the refugees to wonder when they’ll be able to return—if ever.

New container houses at the Kilis 2 camp line a spacious avenue used mostly by kids on bikes and adults on foot. Turkey has set up 22 living areas for refugees since the civil war began in Syria in 2011.

New container houses at the Kilis 2 camp line a spacious avenue used mostly by kids on bikes and adults on foot. Turkey has set up 22 living areas for refugees since the civil war began in Syria in 2011.

Nine-year-old Sarah Helwa plays on a makeshift swing outside her family’s container home. Around the doorway her father has hung a Turkish flag (at left) to show appreciation for their host country’s generosity, a green banner with a declaration of I

Nine-year-old Sarah Helwa plays on a makeshift swing outside her family’s container home. Around the doorway her father has hung a Turkish flag (at left) to show appreciation for their host country’s generosity, a green banner with a declaration of Islamic faith, and flags from the Syrian independence movement.

The five members of the Helwa family share a 20-foot-long container in the Kilis 1 camp. They have kitchen appliances for preparing meals, beds for everyone, a bathroom, and a living room with a flat-screen TV.

The five members of the Helwa family share a 20-foot-long container in the Kilis 1 camp. They have kitchen appliances for preparing meals, beds for everyone, a bathroom, and a living room with a flat-screen TV.

A class of second graders at Nizip 1, like other children in the camps, have access to eduction where other refugee children unable to access camps, do not.

A class of second graders at Nizip 1, like other children in the camps, have access to eduction where other refugee children unable to access camps, do not.

Mohammad Magelk grooms the oasis he has created in the dusty Nizip 1 refugee camp, where more than 11,000 Syrians now live. “When I sit here in front of this tent, I remember my garden back home in Idlib,” he says. In his two years here, he has met a

Mohammad Magelk grooms the oasis he has created in the dusty Nizip 1 refugee camp, where more than 11,000 Syrians now live. “When I sit here in front of this tent, I remember my garden back home in Idlib,” he says. In his two years here, he has met a woman, married her, and started a family.

The Allkadasha family, along with hundreds of others, live in the Shengal Camp along the side of the road in Kilis, Turkey. Without support from UNHCR and other Turkish refugee agency support, refugees living in these makeshift tents only receive sup

The Allkadasha family, along with hundreds of others, live in the Shengal Camp along the side of the road in Kilis, Turkey. Without support from UNHCR and other Turkish refugee agency support, refugees living in these makeshift tents only receive support from Syrian nationals who frequent the camp.

Halit Miglec fixes the zipper of his tent in Nizip Syrian refugee camp, run by the Turkish governmental aid agency, AFAD, located in Nizip, Turkey, 50 kilometers north of the border with Syria. Over 30,000 Syrian refugees had already been living in t

Halit Miglec fixes the zipper of his tent in Nizip Syrian refugee camp, run by the Turkish governmental aid agency, AFAD, located in Nizip, Turkey, 50 kilometers north of the border with Syria. Over 30,000 Syrian refugees had already been living in this camp for more than two years, with no certain future in sight - September 2014.

Boy with umbrella during a rain storm in Nizip Syrian refugee camp in Nizip, Turkey

Boy with umbrella during a rain storm in Nizip Syrian refugee camp in Nizip, Turkey

Half the residents of camps are children—among them 12-year-old Rania and her baby sister, living in Nizip 1. Though their basic needs are met, they’re not being prepared for an extended stay in Turkey. Schools offer only a rudimentary education, and

Half the residents of camps are children—among them 12-year-old Rania and her baby sister, living in Nizip 1. Though their basic needs are met, they’re not being prepared for an extended stay in Turkey. Schools offer only a rudimentary education, and most classes are in Arabic, not Turkish.

The beheading of American journalist, Jim Foley, by ISIS, rebroadcasted on the nightly news inside a temporary home for a Syrian refugee family in Kilis 2 refugee camp, in Kilis, Turkey. Many of those in this camp have been living here for more than

The beheading of American journalist, Jim Foley, by ISIS, rebroadcasted on the nightly news inside a temporary home for a Syrian refugee family in Kilis 2 refugee camp, in Kilis, Turkey. Many of those in this camp have been living here for more than two years.

Life isn’t easy for the estimated 350,000 Syrians who have settled in and around the city of Gaziantep. Women and children crowd around a bakery worker handing out coupons for free bread.

Life isn’t easy for the estimated 350,000 Syrians who have settled in and around the city of Gaziantep. Women and children crowd around a bakery worker handing out coupons for free bread.

The Damlahe family arrived in Turkey in early 2014 fleeing the war in their homeland of Syria. Able to save just enough money for rent (roughly$300 TL per month or roughly $150 USD) the family of five now lives in a one-room apartment in Gaziantep, a

The Damlahe family arrived in Turkey in early 2014 fleeing the war in their homeland of Syria. Able to save just enough money for rent (roughly$300 TL per month or roughly $150 USD) the family of five now lives in a one-room apartment in Gaziantep, able to have a semblance if life outside of a refugee camp - September 2014.

Am Ali, one of the hundreds of refugees living in the Shengal Camp along the side of the road in Kilis, Turkey, breaks into tears while recounting her life back in Syria.

Am Ali, one of the hundreds of refugees living in the Shengal Camp along the side of the road in Kilis, Turkey, breaks into tears while recounting her life back in Syria.

A desperate search for scarce housing led the family of these napping children to a farm. The single room, where six people now live, rents for $150 a month.

A desperate search for scarce housing led the family of these napping children to a farm. The single room, where six people now live, rents for $150 a month.

Kilis bus station in Kilis, Turkey, another arrival point for thousands of Syrian refugees fleeing war and ISIS in their homeland. In September 2014 1.5 million Syrian refugees are now living in Turkey, creating a humanitarian crisis. By 2018, more t

Kilis bus station in Kilis, Turkey, another arrival point for thousands of Syrian refugees fleeing war and ISIS in their homeland. In September 2014 1.5 million Syrian refugees are now living in Turkey, creating a humanitarian crisis. By 2018, more than 3 million refugees lived in Turkey, still today in similar numbers.

Over 300 women from Syria line up to receive food donated by a local NGO in Gaziantep, Turkey.

Over 300 women from Syria line up to receive food donated by a local NGO in Gaziantep, Turkey.

Abu Hamza, 64, lives with his wife and four children in a shop in the Guzel Wadi Mahalesi area of Gaziantep, Turkey. Arriving from outside Damascus, Syria, one-year earlier, he's is afraid to venture outside of the unfinished storefront he rents for

Abu Hamza, 64, lives with his wife and four children in a shop in the Guzel Wadi Mahalesi area of Gaziantep, Turkey. Arriving from outside Damascus, Syria, one-year earlier, he's is afraid to venture outside of the unfinished storefront he rents for 300 TL per month out of fear of growing resentment within the Turkish population who are upset with the large number of Syrian refugees seeking safety in Turkey - September 2014.

In Gaziantep’s historic city center 11-year-old Adnan has a job dipping newly finished copper cups and teapots into a bath to rinse off chemicals—using his bare hands. Like many of the city’s Syrian refugee children, he and his younger brother Khalil

In Gaziantep’s historic city center 11-year-old Adnan has a job dipping newly finished copper cups and teapots into a bath to rinse off chemicals—using his bare hands. Like many of the city’s Syrian refugee children, he and his younger brother Khalil, in the white tank top, work illegally to help support their family.

Portraits of Khalil,10, (left) and his brother, Adnan, 11. Both from Aleppo, Syria, they arrived in Turkey with their parents one year ago, fleeing years of war. Unable to attend school, the brothers earn money to support their family who live as ref

Portraits of Khalil,10, (left) and his brother, Adnan, 11. Both from Aleppo, Syria, they arrived in Turkey with their parents one year ago, fleeing years of war. Unable to attend school, the brothers earn money to support their family who live as refugees in this eastern Turkish city 60 kilometers from the border with Syria - September 2014.

Syrian children exercising in the Shengal Camp located along the side of the road in Kilis, Turkey. Without support from UNHCR, refugees outside of camps scrape by with support from Syrian nationals who frequent the camp. The hand painting on the wal

Syrian children exercising in the Shengal Camp located along the side of the road in Kilis, Turkey. Without support from UNHCR, refugees outside of camps scrape by with support from Syrian nationals who frequent the camp. The hand painting on the wall is called The I Love You Wall, offering peace and love to all around the world.

Syrian children, age 8 to 10, pick cotton on a Turkish farm in Karaburç, Turkey. They and their families arrived as refugees from Manbj near Aleppo 25 days earlier. Unable to gain access to overcrowded camps, the family of eight sleep wherever they c

Syrian children, age 8 to 10, pick cotton on a Turkish farm in Karaburç, Turkey. They and their families arrived as refugees from Manbj near Aleppo 25 days earlier. Unable to gain access to overcrowded camps, the family of eight sleep wherever they can, finding work to pay for food.

Archaeologists delve into 9,000 years of upheaval at the site of Oylum Höyük in southeastern Turkey. This was once a region of fertile farms and important trade routes. “That’s why it’s been the scene of repeated conflict, occupation, and migration,”

Archaeologists delve into 9,000 years of upheaval at the site of Oylum Höyük in southeastern Turkey. This was once a region of fertile farms and important trade routes. “That’s why it’s been the scene of repeated conflict, occupation, and migration,” says dig director Atilla Engin.

Writer and National Geographic Explorer, Paul Salopek, prepare to continue walking through remote regions near Nemrut in eastern Turkey, after resting in the shade of a tree. At this point in the Out of Eden Walk, Paul has been walking since Ethiopia

Writer and National Geographic Explorer, Paul Salopek, prepare to continue walking through remote regions near Nemrut in eastern Turkey, after resting in the shade of a tree. At this point in the Out of Eden Walk, Paul has been walking since Ethiopia, more than three years earlier.

In eastern Turkey, Paul Salopek leads his mule past the Karakuş royal tomb, built in the first century B.C. by one of the area’s many ruling states. When Syrians began to pour over the border 70 miles to the south, Paul and I drove down separately to

In eastern Turkey, Paul Salopek leads his mule past the Karakuş royal tomb, built in the first century B.C. by one of the area’s many ruling states. When Syrians began to pour over the border 70 miles to the south, Paul and I drove down separately to report on the situation.

After waking from a nights rest in a farmers field, Paul Salopek prepares his mule before continuing his walk towards Nemrut in eastern Turkey.

After waking from a nights rest in a farmers field, Paul Salopek prepares his mule before continuing his walk towards Nemrut in eastern Turkey.

Paul Salopek has used camels, mules, horses, donkeys, and cows, to carry the few items he needs, especially food and water while walking the past three years from Ethiopia to eastern Turkey.

Paul Salopek has used camels, mules, horses, donkeys, and cows, to carry the few items he needs, especially food and water while walking the past three years from Ethiopia to eastern Turkey.

Unable to bring his mule through the river bed, Paul Salopek finds a bridge, continuing his walk towards Nemrut. At this point in the walk across Turkey, I learned about the refugee crisis occurring at the border with Syria. Paul and I left the walk

Unable to bring his mule through the river bed, Paul Salopek finds a bridge, continuing his walk towards Nemrut. At this point in the walk across Turkey, I learned about the refugee crisis occurring at the border with Syria. Paul and I left the walk for a few days to document the historical Syrian exodus from Kobani, a six-hour car drive south.